Sutherland, Northern Scotland — July 30th - August 1st, 2004

Written by Narelle

Day 2, Sandwood Bay (Part 1)

We woke up early (7am) and got ready for the day ahead, still a little unsure of what today would bring after yesterday's disappointment. The sky looked heavy and overcast and Yves made reference to a poem by Baudelaire about a lid on a pot, which I think describes the Scottish sky quite accurately most days.

"When the low, heavy sky weighs like a lid
On the groaning spirit, victim of long ennui,
And from the all-encircling horizon
Spreads over us a day gloomier than the night."

Source: http://www.fleursdumal.org/poem/161

After a full Scottish breakfast (of which I ate half because tinned mushrooms and tomatoes are just vile and I don't like baked beans nor black pudding) we enquired about the weather at reception. The owner was there and seemed quite friendly and helpful so we chatted with him for a few minutes. He assured us that it would be a nice day and would clear up within an hour or two and get quite warm.

Cheered up from this good news, we hopped into the car and drove north towards the carpark for Sandwood Bay which is located in Sheigra — 25 minute drive.

From the carpark you head off past a little house, observing a sturdy signpost which appropriately says 'Sandwood' and points to the start of the pathway. It's a 4 mile walk to Sandwood Bay — Britain's most beautiful beach, and one of the top 10 European beaches. The walk is extremely easy going and most of it is on a good path, though there is some jumping over boggy patches to be done towards the end.

As is usually the case in Scotland, we were warned to take waterproof clothing and sturdy hiking boots, and leave a note on the car dashboard specifying where we were headed and what time we left/expected to be back. We did neither because, as is usually the case, the Scots get a bit over-drammatic about these things. We were in shorts (well, I had a skirt) and joggers and that was fine. I could have done most of the track in my sandals, but Yves wouldn't let me. Perhaps in winter it would be a different story (or during periods of heavy rain). As it turned out, we had dry, clear weather which reached 25°C. Perfect!

The scenery along the way is very pretty. There are saltwater lochs with sandy shores, distant mountains and peat bogs covered in purple heather.

You don't see the beach until you're about a quarter of a mile away from it. A pair of logs at the top of a hill mark the entrance to the bay, and when you reach these you finally see the beach, the ocean, a loch and two ruins. The view is breathtaking and you forget all about your tired feet and just want to run all the way down into the dunes.